On the evening of day four, I'd met a guy who suggested a loop through Utah that would get me from the Arches to Bryce and Zion and on my way to the Grand Canyon. I was dubious when he said it would be a good day, both the miles and my desire to actually visit those parks made me think it would be two at least, and I was right. Here are those two days.
Day 5
After the monotony of some of the early miles, I have to say this was in many respects the best of the trip. I began running back on 191 north from my campsite to the Arches National Park. A beautiful double rainbow was all that was left of the prior day's rains, and a heck of a way to start the day (and a really good cup of coffee at a little bakery in Moab didn't hurt. I sure wasn't going to drink the swill they were serving at the KOA). I think the brochure says Arches is something like 77,000 acres, it sure felt big. The Park Service does a good job with signage and all letting you know what you're looking at, for those of us not degreed in geology. The roads are good, well marked, take you in and through the park to see some incredible sights. Once I figure out how to post some of my photos in here I'll show you what I mean.
After touring the park for a while, I went back south on 191 to Blanding, then across 95 and down 276 to Halls Crossing to catch the ferry across Lake Powell. It's hard to describe what that stretch after Blanding was like. Mile after mile of incredible scenery, totally uninhabited areas (do i have enough gas, am i going to be buzzard food?) Roads that varied from straight and fast where I'm just gawking at everything around me, to twisty up and over mesas etc. Well I did make it without running out of gas (161 miles since my prior fill. like a fool I'd skipped the station at Blanding because all they had was low grade high ethanol, lucky i got away with that decision but you can be sure I've been filling a lot more often since then). Unfortunately, the ferry only runs on the odd hour and I got there around 1:30, which meant waiting till 3 for the next. Out in the sun, probably around 115. oh joy. after a little why another guy pulls up on a bike, a swiss guy on a rental harley who'd come from california and was looping his way back there. he was riding with a friend who split off someplace, supposedly to meet on the other side (little did they know that the 3 was the alst ferry of the day, so i don't know how that story ends). Anyway, good to have someone to talk to (of course those waiting in cars and trucks were sitting in their air conditioned comfort and not chatty). Anyway, the ferry ride was ok, not long enough for my taste, but it had a Long Way Round feel that seemed appropriate to this trip.
Anyway, from the ferry more of the same incredible scenery heading about 75 miles up 276 and 95 next to the Henry Mountains (8-12k feet). Basically, since the mountains run north south the roads going parallel try to stay in valleys or across the shoulders, so those are the relatively easy ones, the east west routes have to cross something, so they get more interesting, let's say. Of course when I turned west another of what i've come to realize are the area's late afternoon monsoons (as a local I talked with called them) came, just to make my life interesting. Since we're in the middle of noplace, remember, there was no way to sit it out, just gear up and go. When I turned onto 12 heading southwest, that was the fun bit (and I'm glad the rains had mostly moved past. Through the Dixie National Forest (I almost forgot what trees were, what a nice break they provided from the heat, good thing since I still had my rain gear on). For whatever reason 12 didn't run down a valley, but up up up (summit around 9200 ft, and then down down down. Oh, and just to exercise my sphincter, that included a stretch with what sure felt like sheer drop on either side, 6-9% downhill grade, switchbacks and all. And a cross wind from the moving storm, in case i didn't have enough. Still, when I could take my eyes off the road ahead and look around, the Escalante Staircase was just amazing. Of course, the wait for the ferry, the occasional stops just to catch my wits, water and smoke breaks meant i was pushing dark when I finally got near to bryce, so instead of camping in the park i opted for another KOA. Fine except for the dozens of boy scouts nearby. Indifferent food (almost noplace left open) but another good local beer to send me to sleep.
Day 6
Those boy scouts were up and moving at 5:30, so I was too, albeit slowly. My now usual shower, break camp, pack the bike, head to town to find a decent cup of coffee.....oops, that last didn't work out so well. the espresso the cafe i chose advertised on their sign was instant. oh well. while i was sitting getting my caffeine and nicotine fixes, a guy starts talking to me. german fellow, had seen my bike at the restaurant where I had dinner. Can't remember which he said he rides, current with much smaller engine than the R12, but he has a friend with a C who loves it, and he appreciates it. indeed, i was parked next to an RT which he dismissed utterly. Anyway, at least marginally fortified finally, it was into Bryce for me. Truth be told, after the expanse and majesty of what I had seen the day before, I left Bryce thinking, sure, that's cool, but. Ok, I've been there, seen that. Don't get me wrong, it was pretty cool stuff and probably if I had time to hike to the bottom and see them from within instead of above, I'd have more appreciation, but I didn't, and so don't.
From there, it was over on 12 some more (albeit a much more tame section of 12), down the easy 89 and to Zion. For the first time, those signs i'd seen everywhere of loose cattle made sense, as more than once i ran into critters just wandering about the highway. Also lots of horses (fenced) and my first exposure to bison. Because in Zion you are in the base of the canyon, can walk around (they don't allow private vehicles, you park, get on a shuttle that drops you at key points where you can wander, photograph, and pick up the next one. oh, and many, though not I, took the chance for a cooling dip in the virgin (river) that runs through it. I was suitably impressed, which of course meant that it was late before I left, and yet, I wanted to get into Arizona so off i went.
Oh, I forgot about 9 that takes you into the park. about 15 miles from the cutoff from 12 to the visitor center. lots of up and down down down and around and around, and a tunnel, completed in the 30's i think they said, in the edge of the mountain that runs more than a mile. guess vehicles weren't that large then. on the way out, i had to wait for them to clear traffic in one direction and hold everyone up because someone's RV was too tall to stay in lane, they had to stop the other direction so he could drive out straight down the middle.
anyway, after leaving the park i wanted to book, so while getting gas I asked a trucker which was the faster route, the one my garmin was saying to take (89A), or 89 again. he said the latter, (more miles but faster, supposedly) so off i went. Faster point to point I'll never know, but it was comfortable and fast riding, and this time skirting the south side of that Escalante Staircase, to pretty cool viewing. Eventually, it dips down into Arizona right near the Glen Canyon Dam, the bottom of that Lake Powell I'd crossed on the ferry. Since I was thinking of but guess I won't wind up seeing Hoover Dam this trip, i stopped, it is quite impressive from my vantage point (pic to come).
Well, all those delays and detours, intentional or none, were putting me in a dicy situation. Stop long before the canyon, my destination for tomorrow, or press on. there were supposed to be campgrounds much closer so i decided to go for it. 89 continues into arizona basically fast, though occasionally having to go up and down something that adds some twisties for relief. But the campgrounds were all full, so i went a bit farther to a town called Cameron, right at the cut off for the grand canyon, so here i am in my first hotel room. (man that AC feels good!) at least they give a AAA discount, though still not in my daily budget.
so in the morning it's off to the grand canyon.
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